The Blue Train of South Africa is all that I expected and more. Expectations can be the nemesis of any event. Set them too high and, even though the event was great, you can be left disappointed.
The Blue Train comes with a reputation for grandeur but I still stepped off the train at the end of the journey feeling impressed.
It was with a sense of national pride that I overheard, on many occasions, my fellow passengers – English, Portuguese, Germans, Aussies and Kiwis , praise the train, the food and the amazing staff.
Why is the Blue Train famous?
Thanks to the discovery of diamonds in Kimberley and gold around Johannesburg, luxury travel has been in demand since the late 1800’s. Many of the mining magnets owned their own carriages that were opulent in the extreme.
These luxurious coaches set the standard and more and more people sought to enjoy a similar level of comfort and style.
The Union Limited and Union Express trains in the 1920’s offered articulated coaches fitted with heaters, hot and cold water, bunk lights and bells for summoning the coach attendants.
In 1939, just before the outbreak of the Second World War, South Africa took delivery of all-steel, air conditioned trainsets that were painted blue. They were commonly referred to as ‘those blue trains’.
When the war ended, the demand for these trains increased and they were officially named The Blue Train.
Well publicised use of The Blue Train by international celebrities and the English Royal Family on their visit to South Africa in 1947, boosted the reputation of The Blue Train.
By the late 1960’s The Blue Train was showing signs of wear and so new trainsets were commissioned by the South African Union Carriage & Wagon Company. The brief was simple; “A train that is to be of a standard of luxury and quality of material and workmanship equal to the best in the world.”
The second generation of The Blue Train was launched in 1972 and it was this trainset that pushed The Blue Train’s reputation to new heights. Described as offering uncompromising comfort and being a byword for sophistication, The Blue Train’s renown grew around the world.
In 1997 the third generation of The Blue Train came into existence. Two trainsets were taken into service. As with the second generation the design brief was set very high; “A train that would be unequalled in the world.”
World renowned interior architects, Wilson Associates, designed and coordinated the fitting of these two trainsets. Interestingly, Michael Crosby, whose father helped design the second generation train, assisted in turning the third generation of The Blue Train into a masterpiece.
The Blue Train of today is managed by Transnet, a parastatal company, and continues the fine tradition of its predecessors. Some of South Africa’s top chefs, wine masters and hotel managers have contributed to making The Blue Train a thoroughly enjoyable experience.
What to expect on The Blue Train
I certainly don’t want to ruin your experience on The Blue Train by setting your expectations too high. So perhaps the best place to start is by giving you some facts about the train.
There are two sets of The Blue Train. Trainset 1 accommodates 74 guests in 37 suites and Trainset 2 accommodates 58 guests in 29 suites and features an Observation Car at the rear of the train.
My partner and I had the pleasure of traveling on Trainset 2 and particularly enjoyed the Observation Car.
The carriages come in two types; Luxury Suite and De Luxe Suite. The Luxury Suite carriages have three suites and each is fitted with a bath. The De Luxe carriages have four suites and each is fitted with a shower.
There is also a Dining Car, Club Car, Lounge Car and Observation Car (Trainset 2 only). The Observation Car can be converted into a conference facility.
Each carriage has its own elegantly attired butler who is on call from 6.00 to 23.00 and who services the suites on the carriage. On arrival our butler introduced himself and issued us with his calling card.
The entire train is artfully and tastefully decorated in polished brass, striking fabrics and beautiful, book matched, Anigre veneer panelling framed by solid Birch. The attention to detail is astonishing and the overall ambiance is of discreet luxury.
The suites have a portable telephone that connects with the butler service. We made regular use of our butler – ordering cappuccinos at 6.30 in the morning and a bucket of bubbly for sundowners.
The suites may have a double bed or two single beds. There are fewer double bed suites than single bed suites. The single beds cannot be pushed together so it is important to make your reservation early if you want a double bed.
The suites are small but incredibly well designed, tastefully decorated and very comfortable. There is a large, double glazed window that runs most of the length of the sleeping compartment. It has a built in blind that ensures darkness and privacy is a few clicks away.
We stayed in a De Luxe Suite with two single beds. The beds are folded into the headboard during the day and brought down in the evening by the butler while you are out to dinner. The next morning the butler returns the beds to their fold up position while you are enjoying breakfast.
I did ask our butler to bring the beds down for an afternoon nap on one occasion and he did so with a smile.
The bedding consists of percale Egyptian cotton, duck down duvets and two pillows. Duvets and pillows may be changed to suite your requirements or allergies.
There are a number of lights from the functional overhead downlight to the atmospheric, shaded lamp. The two built in power points allowed us to charge our phones without any problems.
The centre piece of the room is a small table set against the window. There are two large chairs that convert into the beds and a small tub chair as well as two footstools. I loved sitting in the tub chair, feet up and watching the world go buy while sipping on chilled champagne.
Each bedroom has a built in cupboard with two small drawers, a safe and a hanging closet. Just enough space to hang your evening wear and stash your underwear. Overhead there is a stowing space into which we placed out suit cases, large and small, and our shoes.
The bathroom is tiny but well designed. As a fairly large male I never felt restricted. The marble counter, large mirror and high pressure shower is as good as any Five Star hotel, just more compact. The Blue Train labelled soaps, shampoo, conditioner and hand cream are available for use.
The train is air-conditioned throughout and maintains a temperature of about 21 C. I noticed that this did vary depending on the amount of sun coming through the window, the amount of people in a room and, the Dining Car, being adjacent the kitchen, was a little warmer.
The Dining Car and Lounge Cars are beautifully designed and the furniture no doubt dates back to the first generation of The Blue Train. The chairs are well built; brass, leather and fabric upholstered with detailed engravings.
The Dining Car was by far my favourite place. Romantic and comfortable with polished cutlery, crystal glasses, solid silver salt and pepper cellars, fresh flowers, crisp, white table cloths and thick, starched serviettes.
The dimmed lighting, view out the window, perfectly set table and the other happy passengers conversing with us across the aisle was a most enjoyable experience. Despite the confines of the train, I cannot think of another restaurant that is more elegant.
Our waitress was brilliant; polite, efficient and always on hand when needed.
Read more about the wine list, menu and food below.
There are two wing-backed, leather chairs at the rear of the Observation Car. They are hugely popular because of the large window that looks out onto the passing world. I managed a catnap in one of these after the high tea. Yes, I dozed off a couple of times on the journey – testament to the level of comfort on The Blue Train.
The Club Car is the only smoking area on the train and as such serves large Cohiba Siglo VI cigars. I couldn’t resist the opportunity to sip on a single malt whisky while puffing away.
On the morning of the second day the train stopped in Kimberley for three hours where we disembarked for a tour of the Kimberly Mine Museum. Our tour guide was excellent – both entertaining and educational and had our rapt attention for the duration of the tour.
In the evening we played roulette in the Observation Car (chips are issued for free and it is all about having fun) and in the afternoons we played cards in our compartment.
We made new friends, ate to our hearts content, drank without concern and smiled and laughed throughout the journey. What an incredible experience.
How long is the Blue Train trip?
Depending on your choice, the train may depart from or end its journey in Pretoria or Cape Town. Previous routes included trips to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe and to Skukuza in the Kruger National Park but these have since been discontinued. Special routes are arranged from time to time.
The train covers 1600km and takes two and half days. Our train departed Pretoria at 16.00 and arrived in cape Town at 10.00 two days later.
There are frequent stops and, at times, the train travels very slowly. The only time which you are allowed off the train is for a three hour stop-over in Kimberley that includes a guided tour of the Big Hole and the Kimberley Mining Museum.
The journey through the countryside offers great views of South Africa’s many different biomes.
South African railways lines are considered to be narrow gauge by international standards and so visitors to South Africa will notice that The Blue Train is narrower than trains found in most other parts of the world.
South African trains also travel more slowly than their international counterparts and The Blue Train will travel at a maximum of 90km/h.
The trips through the urban areas, to be frank, are not pleasant. Trains the world over travel through the most unpleasant parts of any city. Nobody wants their stately home, prestigious office block or upmarket restaurant located next to a train line.
The stark realities of rapid urbanisation, lack of basic facilities for the poor and the decline of rail transport can be viewed while traveling through some of the cities and towns.
And that was the only unpleasant experience on the entire journey.
What to wear on the Blue Train
Elegant is a perfect adjective for The Blue Train and elegance is what is expected of guests at dinner. Men are required to wear a jacket and tie and ladies to wear evening dress.
Gentlemen, should you find yourself on-board without a jacket, your butler will assist by providing you with one of the trains’ jackets reserved for just such an occasion.
I seldom wear either a jacket or a tie but revelled in the experience of elegant dining. My partner planned her wardrobe weeks in advance.
It was wonderful to see the guests congregating in the Lounge Car sipping on their cocktails, the ladies in their gowns and the gentlemen in their suites, waiting in anticipation for the butlers to announce dinner.
Breakfast, lunch and high tea require smart/casual dress and this was interpreted to include sandals, open neck shirts and shorts.
The menu on The Blue Train
The food was fantastic. Not as good as you may find in a world class restaurant but the incredible chef and his team managed to produce delicious three course lunches and dinners with great presentation on time for all 58 guests from a kitchen smaller than most restaurants’ sculleries. Bravo!
Breakfast included a Continental buffet as well as selection of English and health breakfasts. Coffee could be ordered in all its manifestations – from an espresso to a cappuccino or just plain black. I ordered tea simply for the pleasure of holding the beautiful, solid silver tea pot from a bygone, more craftsman-like era.
Dinner and lunch are served in two sittings and our butler informed us when we could expect to be seated.
The food is a wonderful presentation of South African specialities – Kingklip and West Coast Sole, Karoo Lamb, Boboutie and Ostrich Fillet, Butternut and Seasonal Vegetables, Cape Fruit, Mpumalanga Avocados and KZN Pawpaws.
Take you pick from “Pepper Crusted Venison coupled with a Pistachio Lamb Cutlet and a Barley Casing” or “Seared Duck Breast rested in Pomme Anna with Steamed Green Bean and Red Cabbage Marmalade”.
The chef will cater for special dietary requirements provided that these are specified when making your reservation for The Blue Train.
High tea was served on the second afternoon in all three lounge cars. An assortment of sweet and savoury delights was available from beautiful, silver platters. Thanks to the confined space we found ourselves seated or standing amongst our fellow travellers and we made a number of new friends.
The wine list is short but offers a great selection of South African wines and Methode Cap Classique sparkling wine.
All food and beverages are complementary with the exception of French Champagne and Caviar.
Gratuities for the Staff
In South Africa it is customary to tip waiting staff between 10% and 15% of the food bill. A concierge, porter or butler may also be tipped but this is entirely at the discretion of the guest.
I found The Blue Train staff to be fantastic. Extremely professional, well trained, years of experience and a most pleasant and helpful demeanor made our journey all the more enjoyable.
It so happened that my partner celebrated her birthday while we were on the train. The staff lavished her with smiles, sang to her at dinner and even gave her a present.
A Gratuity Box is found at the entrance to the Club Car. When we first checked in we were issued with an envelope with a letter of welcome from the Train Manager. We placed our gratuity into this envelope before posting it into the Gratuity Box.
There is no cash on The Blue Train and so it is advisable to board with some spare notes to give a well-deserved gratuity.
In conclusion
The Blue Train is simply wonderful. From the quiet seclusion of the cabin to the romance of the Dining Car to the comfort of the Lounge Cars, The Blue Train is more than a journey it is an experience. I find that as I write this article I cannot stop smiling as I remember our time on this incredible train.
I can’t wait to return.
Book your experience on The Blue Train
To make an online booking, click here. Call +27 12 334 8459 for more information or email info@bluetrain.co.za