The Wild Coast lies between the Cintsa and Mtamvuna rivers and is the wildest coast line, in every sense, on our notoriously rough sub-continent. Magnificent waves that have travelled from the Southern Ocean pound the land and the mighty Agulhas Current, one of the fastest on the planet, surges past at this, its closest proximity to Africa.
Over the centuries these two powerful actions have created gigantic cliffs – from which waterfalls of fresh water cascade directly into the crashing waves beneath – and have sculpted hundreds of small, secluded, palm-fringed beaches, sheltered between rocky promontories.
The green, rolling hills just inland have storybook scenery, being topped with neat villages of mud huts and decorated with winding dirt roads and grazing livestock. Serenity itself, but wild in the sense that there are few power lines or telephone poles to interrupt the magnificent scenery and, of course, provide the amenities that we urbanites require for daily living.
Roads to the Wild Coast
Access to this 300 km coastline is rather daunting. There are only four tarred roads that wind their way down from the N2 to the only four villages – the only four vaguely urban areas – that sit astride this coast.
There are a few signposted dirt roads too, but my advice is not to use these in a sedan. No coastal roads exist, well not the kinds that would be called anything other than farm tracks, and these neither have any signposts or route markers, nor do they even appear on any reasonable road map.
A GPS or just good, old-fashioned navigation is your best bet for travelling from one end to the other by car, and even then, it can’t be done in its entirety.
The Kei River pont
Your entry point from the southern end crosses the Kei, not by bridge but by pont, one of the very few left in South Africa.
Hiking is possible, but it takes 30 days. Yip, you’re right, that’s only 10kms per day as the crow flies, but not even Red Bull will get you much further in a day as there are cliffs to climb, rivers to wade and scenery that will catch your breath and hold you suspended in time.
At regular intervals along the southern half of the coast line, quaint hotels set in beautiful, natural gardens and just out of reach of the high tide, are to be found. Typical examples include Crawfords, Mazeppa Bay, Ocean View, and Trennery’s Hotel to name but a few . They offer full board, comfortable beds, open verandas, happy pubs, long lists of birds, short walks, longer hikes, tea time, friendly staff in freshly ironed aprons, five course dinners and all those other things that take you back 50 years when time moved more sedately.
The villages offer some of the best backpacker lodges I’ve ever seen which have become world famous amongst this fraternity for their awesome settings, carefree lifestyle and, of course, the local, organically grown herbs.
Plenty to do at the Wild Coast
Fishing (rod or spear), surfing, hiking, walking, canoeing, birding, 4 X 4ing, biking (motor, quad or mountain only), swimming, climbing, abseiling, diving, boating (river or ocean, motorised or paddle) and shooting (photos only) can all be done at just about any place chosen to camp, caravan, self-cater or luxuriate in a hotel.
Of course, there are no shark nets, and with warm water well-churned by the numerous rivers, sharks have been known to be a problem. Crocodiles also inhabit a few of the more secluded rivers. Before entering the water, ask the locals for advice.
Personally, I like the cows. They are everywhere, including on the beach, over the next blind rise or around the corner. They are also beautiful with the typical markings of their Nguni breed.
Paradise? Absolutely! But I do also love the sound of the tarred road running smoothly beneath my tires and a good Steers burger at the end of the holiday, neither of which is available in this wilderness.
Recommended Places To Stay
Mazeppa Bay Hotel
Mazeppa Bay Hotel, nestled among palms and tropical plants, is set high above broad beaches on the beautiful Wild Coast of South Africa.
The hotel is characterized by its own island, which is accessible by a quaint suspension bridge. This however, is not for the faint hearted.
The road to the hotel is gravel and is only suitable for 4×4 or high clearance vehicles.
The hotel does however, have a landing strip for light planes and a helipad. And for groups they offer a transfer service from East London.
The old style charm has been maintained and three home cooked meals are served every day with a seafood dinner on Saturday and Wednesday nights.
For more information or to make a reservation, call +27 47 498 0033 or WhatsApp 082 575 0513. Follow them on Facebook by clicking Here.
Mazeppa Bay Hotel may be found at Mazeppa Bay, Thubeni, Wild Coast, South Africa or on Google Maps by clicking Here.
Ocean View Hotel, Coffee Bay
The wonderful Wild Coast of the Eastern Cape is blessed with some of the most exciting coastlines in the world, and one of the best places to stay and appreciate this beauty is at the Ocean View Hotel.
Spending your holiday with them will give you memorable experiences, whether you are travelling as a family, as a couple or a group of friends.
Ocean View Hotel allows you to explore the wonderful activities of the Wild Coast. Not only is the beach right on their doorstep, but you can also get the whole family involved in the fun activities.
There are a number of activities exclusively for children to enjoy and special places for the adults to go and relax while the kids play during the day.
The Ocean View Hotel is also a popular place to stay when the Sardine Run makes its way to the Wild Coast. You can enjoy luxury accommodation and dining at a reasonable price while also getting an up-close and personal look at the Sardine Run on a boat.
To find out more about the Ocean View Hotel and what they have to offer, give them a call on 047 575 2005/6 or email info@oceanview.co.za. Visit their website at www.oceanview.co.za. Find them at 1 main road, Coffee Bay, Mthatha, 5082.
Crawfords Beach Lodge, Cintsa
For the perfect beach getaway that offers luxury accommodation right by the ocean as well as top-class facilities and hospitality, look no further than Crawfords Beach Lodge in Chintsa, near the Wild Coast.
The beach is just a short walk away, making it a great holiday destination for families, couples and friends.
Crawfords Beach Lodge is a family-run holiday resort that offers luxury accommodation, gourmet cuisine and a variety of adventurous and relaxing activities to enjoy. Their friendly and helpful staff go above and beyond to make sure your stay is a memorable one.
The Wild Coast is known for its beautiful coastline, desolate beaches, secluded bays, rolling hills and wonderful river valleys. There is so much to explore and admire in the region, you will feel like you have entered a whole new world of wonder and fantasy.
To make a booking at Crawfords Beach Lodge, give them a call on 043 738 5000 or email info@crawfordsbeachlodge.co.za. Visit their website at www.crawfordsbeachlodge.co.za. Find them at 42 Steenbras Drive, Chintsa, East London, 5275.
Wavecrest Hotel& Spa
Location is everything when it comes to property and Wavecrest Hotel & Spa is located on a one of the most attractive stretches of coastline in South Africa.
The Wildcoast is awesome because it is, well, wild. There are no crowds and no consumerism. A stay at one of the many hotels on the Wildcoast is like being comfortably marooned on a tropical island.
Having travelled and holidayed on most of the Wildcoast I can honestly say that the Wavecrest Hotel & Spa has one of the best locations on this incredibly beautiful coastline.
The hotel faces north east and looks out across the serene mouth of the Ngqusi River. The beach stretches off into the heat hazed distance and the deep blue Indian Ocean roles its waves onto white sand.
I particularly enjoy sitting at the pub at the end of a busy day. The long bar counter runs east to west and, looking over the barman’s shoulder, through the wide windows, the view is spectacular.
I recommend using Google Maps. Find Wavecrest Hotel and Spa by clicking here.
For more information or to make a reservation call +27 (0) 47 498 0022 or +27 (0) 83 306 3043 or email reservations@wavecrest.co.za.